Figure 1 – Jebel Barkal (photo taken during 2016 fieldwork)
30 Nov 2018
Gregory Tucker
Welcome to the first of a series of blog posts that I plan on writing every Friday over the next few weeks for the Kelsey Museum’s #fieldworkfriday series! This happens to coincide perfectly with our rest day in the field, so I thought I could take the time to share with you a bit of what we’re up to this season in Sudan.
The International Kurru Archaeological Project has been an international project studying the ancient Nubian site of el-Kurru in modern day Sudan near the city of Karima since 2013.[1] As part of this project I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to conduct geophysical survey at el-Kurru and the neighboring sites of Sanam and Jebel Barkal, to get a better understanding of the unexcavated areas of these sites without, or prior to, intensive excavation.[2]
In general, geophysical survey attempts to detect features beneath the surface by remotely sensing various properties at, or just above, the Earth’s surface. Perhaps it might be useful to think of an x-ray or other medical imagery detecting something within your body without actually touching the bones or other internal body parts; geophysical survey for archaeology works similarly. In the case of this season’s work I will be conducting a magnetic gradiometry survey over two locations at Jebel Barkal. This technique is similar to the one used by metal detectorists who you may have seen at the beach or in parks, but instead of looking for individual objects we are seeking patterns in the subsurface that are indicative of various structures or other features, and our instruments are able to document all of the readings at the surface as I walk across the desert which I then plot them in a map at the end of the day. This technique has proven especially effective in the conditions we are expecting to experience this season at Jebel Barkal and with any luck we will have exciting results once again![3]
Figure 2 – Here I am walking with the magnetic gradiometer at Sanam in winter 2017 (photo by Ibrahim Sidahmed).
Over Thanksgiving and the subsequent few days, I travelled from Sohag to Cairo to London to Doha to Khartoum, leaving another Kelsey Museum project at Abydos, Egypt[4] to pick up the magnetic instrument that I will be using this season in Sudan from its home in England.
Figure 3 – I actually passed through sunny Leighton Buzzard to pick up the equipment, rather than London itself.
I had travelled through Doha to reach Sudan once before, in 2016, but that was before the route was changed due to airspace issues, and the flight from Doha to Khartoum has now become two hours longer than just two years ago.[5] There was some good news for me though: The longer itinerary meant a low passenger load and a mere handful of us had almost the entire coach section to ourselves!
Figure 4 – “Boarding complete” on our flight from Doha to Khartoum. Don’t worry, I moved to a window seat. I was very thankful for the empty flight the day after Thanksgiving, with so much travel over the prior 48 hours and so much still to go before reaching Kurru.
Once I arrived in Khartoum I collected my belongings, including the magnetic gradiometer, and I made my way to the hotel for the night to rest for the journey to Kurru the following day. In the morning I met with our colleague and friend Sami Elamin, who is assisting my work as our inspector from the National Corporation for Antiquities and Museums (NCAM), and we made the six-hour trip through the desert to Kurru.
This past week has been spent getting started in the field, from arranging logistics related to the work, such as how we would get our breakfast delivered while in the field, to meetings with our colleagues from NCAM and another active project at Jebel Barkal run by the University of Venice, to once again taking part in the vibrant life of the village, for instance by attending a pre-wedding party last night which was open to all and featured a live band and much revelry, at least until the power went out over the entire region for the night.
With the help of my colleagues from Kurru and NCAM we have already collected some very useful data and set out the grid that will guide our work across the landscape.
Figure 5 – Proof of work in the desert (and the heat!) while setting out the grid for our survey work using a total station.
Next weekend, and remember: our rest day is on Friday, I hope to share a bit more about the site of Jebel Barkal and the projects that I am working with this field season.
[1] https://lsa.umich.edu/kelsey/research/current-field-projects/el-kurru–sudan.html and internationalelkurruproject.sites.ku.dk
[2] See our publication on the 2016 season work in Tucker & Emberling (2016) Settlement in the Heartland of Napatan Kush: Preliminary Results of Magnetic Gradiometry at El-Kurru, Sanam, and Jebel Barkal, Sudan & Nubia (20): 16-22.
[3] In addition to our 2016 publication we have presented our results at the 2018 Archaeological Institute of America (AIA) annual meeting in Boston and the 2018 International Conference for Nubian Studies in Paris.
[4] https://lsa.umich.edu/kelsey/research/current-field-projects/abydos–egypt.html
[5] https://www.wsj.com/articles/how-the-middle-easts-conflicts-shut-down-its-skies-1522